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India’s Signature Handlooms
Introduction
India’s handloom tradition is one of the oldest and richest in the world—a living expression of art, identity, and sustainability. Across the subcontinent, each region has cultivated its own distinctive weaving style, shaped by local materials, beliefs, and climate. These handcrafted textiles are more than mere fabrics; they are expressions of heritage passed down through generations, preserving not just beauty but livelihood and dignity. At Navira, we celebrate these diverse looms not just as products, but as stories you can wear—woven with intention, rooted in culture, and tailored for a conscious future.
Below are concise profiles of twelve iconic Indian handlooms—their home states, unique techniques, cultural perception, and appx indication of market price ( this can vary according to design and various other factors).
Banarasi Brocade (Uttar Pradesh)
Banarasi brocade hails from Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh. Woven on pit-looms with a supplementary weft of gold or silver-look zari, it creates opulent floral jaals and Mughal-inspired motifs. The technique demands meticulous drafting (naksha) and punch cards that control each pick, often taking weeks for a single saree. Revered as bridal finery and heirloom luxury, Banarasi silks symbolise North-Indian grandeur yet are now styled into contemporary separates. Saree prices range roughly ₹8,000 for simple katan silks to ₹80,000+ for pure zari masterpieces.
Kanchipuram Silk (Tamil Nadu)
Kanchipuram (Tamil Nadu) silk sarees are woven from lustrous mulberry silk combined with real silver-gilded zari. Warp and weft often change colour midway, giving the drape a dramatic two-tone iridescence. Weavers interlock contrast borders to the body with the korvai technique, ensuring unmatched durability. Regarded as the “queen of silks,” a Kanchi saree marks South-Indian weddings and temple ceremonies, yet designers now cut it into jackets and dresses. Market prices range from ₹10,000 for lighter weaves to well over ₹1.5 lakh for heavy bridal styles.
Chanderi (Madhya Pradesh)
From Chanderi, Madhya Pradesh, this airy fabric blends cotton, silk and zari in an extra-weft technique that scatters translucent butas across a sheer body. The hallmark is its lightweight drape and subtle shimmer that suits India’s tropical heat. Historically patronised by royalty, Chanderi today is prized for effortless elegance in both sarees and Western silhouettes like overlays or blouses. Depending on fibre mix and intricacy, sarees retail between ₹3,000 and ₹20,000, making it an accessible gateway to luxury handlooms.
Maheshwari (Madhya Pradesh)
Woven on the banks of the Narmada in Maheshwar, Madhya Pradesh, Maheshwari fabric pairs fine cotton warps with silk wefts, yielding a crisp yet fluid texture. Geometric zari borders—known as chatai, rui phool or diamond—are produced through a distinctive dobby set-up, while reversible pallus allow two looks in one. Once commissioned by Queen Ahilyabai Holkar, Maheshwari now bridges tradition and everyday chic, transforming into dupattas, kurtas and home décor. Saree prices usually span ₹3,000 to ₹12,000.
Sambalpuri Ikat (Ikat of Odisha)
The colourful bandha or Sambalpuri Ikat arises in western Odisha. Both warp and weft threads are tie-dyed multiple times before weaving, so patterns form magically on the loom. Classical motifs like shankha (conch) and chakra (wheel) echo Jagannath culture, and natural dyes still feature in many clusters. Sambalpuri’s precise resist-dyeing earns global admiration and has become a statement of rooted modernism for office-goers. Cotton sarees start near ₹4,000, while intricate silk versions climb to ₹25,000 or more.
Pochampally Ikat (Telangana)
Originating in Bhoodan-Pochampally, Telangana, this ikat differentiates itself with sharp diamond-like geometry called chowka. Artisans employ a traditional pit loom and fine mercerised cotton or silk, executing single or double ikat through meticulous tying of yarn bundles. Once worn mainly by Telangana brides, Pochampally now appears in scarves, sneakers and upholstery, celebrated for its graphic clarity. Its bold geometry complements minimalist wardrobes and is endorsed by sustainability advocates for its low-waste dyeing process. Simple cotton sarees begin at around ₹3,500, whereas pure silk double ikats can touch ₹18,000.
Jamdani (West Bengal & Bangladesh)
Bengal’s Jamdani, centred in Dhaka and West Bengal’s Shantipur, is technically an extra-weft brocade on fine muslin. Using small bamboo sticks, motifs are inlaid stitch by stitch, floating like clouds on an almost invisible base. Classic butis of ganga-jamuna, kalka and jal flow without repeats, making each piece a tapestry of patience. Symbolising poetic grace, Jamdani is a luxury for connoisseurs yet fits minimal, contemporary dressing. Cotton variants start near ₹5,000, while gossamer muslin silks rise to ₹40,000.
Patola (Gujarat)
Double-ikat Patola from Patan, Gujarat, is among the world’s most complex weaves. Both warp and weft are resist-dyed up to twenty times so patterns align perfectly, yielding identical design on both sides. Sacred motifs—parrots, elephants, nari kunjar—were once woven solely for royalty and Jain merchants. Today, authentic Patola is a collector’s art object styled as heirloom sarees or framed fabric. Prices reflect years of labour, starting around ₹1.5 lakh and rising to ₹4 lakh or more.
Paithani (Maharashtra)
Paithani of Maharashtra blends mulberry silk with tapestry-style interlock brocade. The paithani loom uses separate threads for each colour, allowing peacock and lotus borders to shimmer without floats on the reverse. A signature kaleidoscopic pallu, achieved by carefully shifting the weft shuttle, makes every piece unique. Paithani signifies Maharashtrian bridal splendour but also pairs beautifully with modern blouses and gowns. Costs range from ₹15,000 for simpler cotton-silk blends to ₹2 lakh for heavy zari singles.
Muga Silk (Assam)
Assam’s Muga silk, extracted from endemic Antheraea assamensis silkworms, possesses a natural golden sheen that deepens with age. Hand-reeled yarn is woven on throw-shuttles into mekhela-chadors and dress lengths, often ornamented with tribal geometrics in red eri silk. Because the silkworms feed on wild som trees, sericulture coexists with forest conservation, giving Muga an ecological halo in slow-fashion circles. Prized for its strength and natural lustre, Muga is a sustainable luxury now fashioned into ties and jackets for global markets. Fabric prices begin near ₹8,000, while richly woven festive sets can touch ₹60,000.
Kota Doria (Rajasthan)
Kota Doria, produced in Kaithoon, Rajasthan, is recognised by its square “khat” check created from a blend of cotton and silk warps differing in thickness. The open weave results in feather-light fabric perfect for India’s scorching summers. Originally patronised by Bundi royalty, Kota’s understated elegance has made it a favourite for everyday sarees, dupattas and summer dresses. Designers overlay it on linens or blend with organza for bridal veils, reinforcing Kota’s association with ethereal lightness. Sarees retail between ₹1,500 and ₹10,000 depending on zari and dyeing.
Bhujodi (Gujarat)
Bhujodi shawls from Kutch, Gujarat, are hand-woven by the Vankar community using extra-weft looping to create bold motifs inspired by desert life—latticed mirrors, rhythmic stripes, camel footprints. Locally hand-spun kala cotton or wool is dyed with natural indigo, madder and iron rust, echoing sustainable desert tradition. Once barter goods for Rabari nomads, Bhujodi textiles now adorn urban homes and winter wardrobes alike. Government GI protection and artisan collectives have revived this craft, which connoisseurs prize for tactile integrity and story-laden symbolism. Stoles start around ₹1,800, while richly patterned blankets may reach ₹12,000.